Ethos Cafe: There is a particular talent for writing about food, one that I can’t say that I have. But I can tell you a story about Joel and Daphnee, as I encountered their food one day unexpectedly. I was never really that talented in cooking, rather my skill lies in eating and I think I’m a person who especially has an appreciation for good flavour.
It was the avocado toast (pictured below left) that I still remember to this day that stopped me in my tracks.
You know that kind of moment where the world outside your head seems to pause, and you’re floating in a sort of taste sensation that hits you all of a sudden and you just want to stay right there as long as you can, if you know what I mean.
It was the perfect blend of avocado to toast, dressed with Kalamata olives, feta, sesame seed crunch, fresh parsley, and an umami-style dressing that just seemed to take it over the top. I went back through my camera roll and sure enough, I still had a photo of it (see below).
That’s all it took for me, I’ve been a fan of their food ever since.
One might think that Joel had studied at least some classical chef’s training but that isn’t the case. Hailing from Quebec originally, he travelled extensively, discovering new tastes in various different cultures. Along his travels, he discovered he had an interest and talent for cooking, and that you could flavour your food in such a way that people couldn’t be certain of the ingredients. It’s like feeding vegetarian tacos to a bunch of meat lovers. That’s a pretty big win.
Take, for example, the Carpaccio de Calabacin (pictured above right) on the current menu. I ordered it out of curiosity, and it was a delightful dish. What I thought was a type of deconstructed avocado toast, had absolutely no avocado in it whatsoever. Zucchini is the star here, but I never would have known it. The fried sourdough is the crown jewel though, elevating this dish far beyond what I could have anticipated.
Joel has a passion for food and flavour, which has led him to where he is today. If nothing else, he isn’t constrained by the limitations that might have come from years of culinary training. He doesn’t know what he doesn’t know, so he forges ahead.
Fast forward a few years and Joel and Daphnee are the creative force behind Ethos, where the demand for their famous Breaky Roll seems to expand by the day.
“It’s the sauce,” laughs Joel, nodding his head, and of course, he’s right. One of their most popular items, it’s a breakfast delight built with bacon, tomato chutney, aioli, cheddar, and potato rosti, with a Golden Valley Farm Egg Frittato on a house-made Brioche Bun. If that feels like a mouthful, you better believe it is. And it’s one of the only items that doesn’t change when they update their menu every six months.
I tried to make a case for the grilled cheese sandwich with three cheeses and caramelized onions from a previous menu, and while he smiled and nodded, acknowledging my argument, he gave nothing away as to whether it would make a return.
Ethos recently celebrated its second anniversary, and Joel explained that there are basically three main revenue sources for the cafe. Coffee and specialty beverages are the main events, then there’s food service with the full menu available throughout the day, and then of course, there’s the sourdough bread, which has a following all its own, and generally sells out early in the day.
“The sourdough is all Daphnee,” he says, smiling. “It was entirely her idea, starting during Covid. I even resisted her, thinking it would never fly.”
Right now, the cafe bakes 36 loaves per day, every day. “We’re at capacity. Even though Daphnee bakes at night, our equipment and space is at the limit.”
Sourcing local ingredients is evident in their menu, there is always a mushroom dish. “Mushroom Will is a great local guy, with an excellent product. He’s able to meet our demand, which isn’t always easy for small producers in the Golden area, due to such a short growing season.”
What’s next for Ethos? Exciting things are in the mix but they’re not quite ready to make any announcements just yet.
In the meantime, drop by the cafe and try something completely new to you. You never know when something will stop you in your tracks.
Want to know more? Go to their website at ethoscafe.ca.
Ethos is located at 612 7th Street N. in Golden, BC. Open 7:30 – 4:00 p.m. daily, kitchen closes at 3:00 p.m.
